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Review: Old San Juan a New Favorite
The State (Weekend Section) Feb. 1, 2008
Rating: 4-stars
One of my co-workers was raving recently about his new favorite dinner spot, Old San Juan Restaurant in Northeast Richland. Always in the hunt for something new and delicious, we decided to head over to Two Notch Road, just in front of the Spring Valley subdivision, to check it out.
The Otero family is committed to serving authentic Puerto Rican cuisine and seems to have a loyal customer base. Any questions we had (well, I had) about the food were explained graciously and helped me make some delicious choices.
We started out with tostones ($3), green plantains (not the sweet ones) that have been fried lightly then mashed, seasoned, shaped into disks and fried again, topped with a smidge of garlic and cilantro (mojo de ajo) sauce. The combination of the crunchy exterior and the softer interior was a great beginning to our meal. Of note, the tostones can be ordered stuffed with shrimp for $5.95.
Moving on to the platos principales (entrees)... I tried the El Convento (pulled roasted pork served with rice and pigeon peas), $7.50. The pork was tender and seasoned lightly and, when mixed with the rice and peas, quite filling. Puerto Rican cuisine is not traditionally spicy, heat-wise, but you can ask for a hot sauce — just don’t use too much.
We also ordered the San Sebastian ($6.75), cube steak with onions over yellow rice; El Adoquin ($5.95), chicken fricassee over white rice and a side bowl of perfectly seasoned red beans; and a mofongo topped with sauteed shrimp ($13.95).
Mofongo is a dish related to tostones in that green plantains are fried lightly, then placed in a pestlelike bowl and mashed and mixed with fried pork rinds. This then is topped with the shrimp. You are served a salsa of tomato, garlic and cilantro on the side that you mix into the plantain. It was far and away the favorite at the table.
The cube steak had a refreshing hint of citrus that blended well with the onion and rice. And the El Adoquin — the chicken was so tender, it just about fell off the bone.
All the entree choices come with a small salad of lettuce and tomato and a house dressing that has a hint of sweet plantain (great for dipping in the tostones).
We were so stuffed after lunch that there was no room for dessert, but I did notice a tres leches (sweet three-milk) cake on the menu ($3) that warrants a return trip.
IF YOU GO
ADDRESS: 110 Columbia Northeast Drive, Suite A
PHONE: (803) 419-4365
RESERVATIONS? No
NONSMOKING? Yes
SERVICE (1-5): 4. Very helpful and patient. Fast and courteous, too.
AMBIENCE (1-5): 4. Sunny and bright, with posters and photos of Puerto Rico
ACCESSIBILITY: Yes
PAYMENT: Major credit, cash
AND SOMETHING ELSE: Takeout available;
menu can be found at the Web site (www.oldsanjuanrestaurant.net), which has links to information about Puerto Rican culture.